Heat Pump Repair in Peachtree Corners, GA
Homes here need heat from November through April and cooling from May through September. If your system quits, tell us what it's doing and a licensed contractor who covers Gwinnett County will get in touch.
Tell us about the job
It takes about a minute.
Peachtree Corners asks a lot of a heat pump
Your heat pump works almost year round here, heat from November through April, cooling from May through September. That is eleven months of run time with barely a break in between.
Winter nights averaging 34°F push a heat pump hard, since it has to pull heat from cold outside air rather than burn a fuel to make it. That strain shows up in the defrost cycle and the reversing valve, the parts that let the system switch between heating and cooling. When one of those starts to fail, you will notice the outdoor unit icing over, or the air blowing cold when it should be warm. Add in the wind events this area sees, and outdoor components take a beating from debris and power interruptions on top of the workload.
- 6 months
- November through April, your system heats
- 5 months
- May through September, it cools
- 34°F
- the average winter night it heats against
- 87°F
- the average summer afternoon it cools against
NOAA nClimDiv, 1991–2020 normals
Georgia requires HVAC contractors to hold a state license.
Georgia licenses HVAC contractors through the State Construction Industry Licensing Board. That means the contractor was tested and is on record with the state. The license belongs to the contractor, not to any single job, so it stays in force across everything they work on, including a repair like this one.
A heat pump repair often means working on the refrigerant side of the system, and anyone who opens that side needs EPA Section 608 certification. That is a federal requirement in every state, separate from the Georgia license, and it applies to whoever handles the refrigerant regardless of where the job is.
Source: Georgia Secretary of State
- Why is my heat pump blowing cold air?
- In winter, a heat pump puts out air that feels cool compared to a furnace even when it's working right, because it moves heat instead of burning fuel to make it. If the air feels cold rather than just cool, check the thermostat mode and the filter first. A dirty filter or a frozen outdoor coil cuts down the heat the system can move, and at 34°F on a winter night here that coil is already working hard. If the outdoor unit is covered in ice or the air is truly cold at the vents, a contractor licensed by the state board should look at the refrigerant charge and the defrost cycle.
- Why is there ice on my heat pump?
- A thin layer of frost on the outdoor unit in winter is normal. Heat pumps pull heat out of the outside air even when it's cold, and the coil dips below freezing while doing it, so the system runs a defrost cycle on a timer to melt that frost off. Ice that builds up thick, stays after defrost should have cleared it, or forms on the lines rather than the coil means the defrost cycle isn't kicking in or airflow is blocked. That points to a fan problem, a low refrigerant charge, or a stuck defrost control, and any of those needs a licensed technician since fixing it may mean opening the refrigerant side of the system.
- Why is my heat pump running but not cooling?
- If the outdoor and indoor units are both running but the house isn't cooling down, the most common cause is airflow or refrigerant, not the compressor itself. Start with the filter. A clogged filter starves the indoor coil of air and it can ice over, which stops it from pulling heat out of the house at all. If the filter is clean and the vents are open, low refrigerant is the next likely cause, and on an 87°F afternoon here that shows up fast as warm air at the registers. Checking refrigerant means opening a sealed part of the system, which by federal law takes an EPA Section 608 certified technician.